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But I realized that is the greatest part about competitive surfing, it challenges the balance. Of course it is going to be easy to quiet the mind in an empty lineup, to live in joy on a secluded island. But that is not reality for most of us.
We live in world of crazy, and it is more important to find the joy amidst it so that even in the worst moment of your life, you can retreat into your own serenity. Practice is key. When confronted an unappealing situation, make sure the first thing you do is refocus on your breathing, on how your body feels, on the colors surrounding you. Refocus on the basic elements. Appreciate them. Appreciate the craziness. Think about the infinite galaxy of stars and our fleeting place among it. When you return to confront the moment, perhaps you can do so in mindful mellowness.
The crazy isn't going anywhere, so we need to learn to embrace it and perhaps even laugh a little.